New Zealand Adventures--Feb./Mar. 2008

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 1

FEBRUARY/MARCH, 2008

Hello from Judy and Dick Rosene in New Zealand!

What a unique and amazing country this is! Our first few days have been filled with new discoveries and opportunities to make many new friendships. We are the only two in our tour group from the United States; there are seven from the U.K., our close friend, Yoko, from Japan, and everyone else is from Australia. We are the only ones who eat with our fork in our right hand!
After spending nearly 26 hours from when we left home to when we checked in at our hotel in Auckland, we met up with our close friend, Yoko Watanabe, who had arrived from Tokyo three hours after us. Shortly thereafter, we were able to rendezvous with Beverley and Murray, relatives of our friend, André, who live in the outskirts of Auckland.

Together we walked over to the fifty story high Sky Tower, which provided us a panoramic view of the entire city. As we enjoyed our first New Zealand lunch there looking out the windows, we were suddenly surprised to see a person dangling from a wire anchored at the top of the tower. Could it be possible that someone was doing a bungy jump from the Sky Tower? In just moments after being suspended there, that person was dropped the rest of the height of the tower, ending up but a short distance from the ground. We had already been introduced to a sport that is extremely popular in New Zealand.

New Zealand has numerous natural wonders, including an abundance of mysterious underground caves. Ruakuri Caves, where we did our exploring, had not only innumerable limestone formations, but also a natural phenomenon--glowworms lighting up the cave ceilings.

Later that day we had the opportunity to wander through a dense grove of Coastal Redwood trees, planted over 60 years ago in a scientific experiment. The climate proved ideal for the development of these mighty giants.

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 2

In Part 2 of our New Zealand Adventures we would like to explain a little about the native people of this unique country. New Zealand is a nation of immigrants; the first being the Maori, who arrived from Polynesia about 1000 years ago--long before Europeans began arriving on these two islands.

After near decimation, the Maori population is now increasing. There are several places where Maori customs, crafts, works of art, music and legends are being preserved. We were introduced to some aspects of the Maori culture at a Hangi, where we had a dinner of traditional Maori and New Zealand foods. After this we were entertained by the haka (war dance), the poi dance, traditional songs and stick games.

On another day at the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute we were shown demonstrations of the art of Maori carving being taught to young people at a carving school. We were also able to view another way of preserving Maori culture--teaching the younger generations how to weave natural fibers into unique and lovely woven items, some of which were displayed at the weaving school. We realize that we have only begun to learn about the Maori people and their culture, but we wanted to share at least this much with you.

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 3

Our first Sunday started with a breakfast cruise on Lake Rotorua aboard the only paddle steamer in use in New Zealand. From there we went to a venue named the Agrodome, a one-of-a-kind educational experience, where we were given a dynamic program introducing the great variety of breeds of sheep. The entertaining "sheep man" proceeded to give us an unbelievably fast demonstration of the modern method of sheering a sheep. When he asked for volunteers from the audience to come on stage, our friend, Yoko, was chosen to be one of those who was shown how to feed milk to a wiggly little lamb. Outside two sheep dogs showed how skillfully they were able to herd the sheep.

It is said that there are many more sheep than people in New Zealand. Many are on the mountains as well in valleys and pastures along the roads. Herds of dairy cattle and herds of deer, raised primarily for export, are also in abundance.

We think New Zealand must be a geologist's paradise, with a large number of volcanoes, mountains, fiords, geysers, bubbling mud pools, and other natural features in a relatively small area. In the Te Puia Thermal Valley the air was heavy with the strong smell of sulfur. Descending along the path to the huge pools of boiling hot mud and erupting geysers, we were impressed with the ever-changing scene. The term "sight-seeing" in this instance took on new meaning, especially when we were showered with the sulfur water from a geyser!

On Monday our tour bus, known here as our coach, took us along narrow mountain roads, through pine forests, and on winding hilly terrain as we drove further south on the North Island. We were able to leave the tour group for a few hours in a town about an hour north of Wellington, to visit a woman, Anne Blundell, who once lived for a few months on the street in Cincinnati where Judy grew up. She had come with her husband and baby daughter, who had a rare disease that needed to be treated outside of New Zealand. It was almost 50 years ago when Judy's parents befriended the family.

When we had wanted to find Anne, a most helpful librarian in Wellington diligently searched for and put us in touch with her in the weeks before our departure. Now we finally were able to meet her and spend time in her lovely home. It was as if we had known each other for many years. Anne showed us photos from the time she and her husband had spent in Ohio and told us about her family. One of her daughters stopped by to meet us and to take some pictures. Anne proudly showed us her beautiful flower gardens and later drove us to the commuter train station so that we could take the train to Wellington to rejoin our tour group.

Wherever we travel we find that some of the most interesting memories consist of times spent with people who live in whatever country we are visiting. Anne is just the latest of this special group of international friends.

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 4

Tuesday found us aboard The Interislander Ferry going from the North Island to the South Island, where we would be spending the remainder of our trip. The Cook Strait, notorious for strong winds and treacherous currents, surprisingly provided a smooth three hour crossing on a beautiful sunny day.

Once aboard the coach again, our driver/guide, Wayne, who lives on the North Island, commented, "The South Island has got it all." Our journey took us through one of New Zealand's most productive wine-growing regions. We were told that the country has become well-known for the excellent quality of its wines.

We drove along the scenic highway hugging the South Pacific Ocean Coast where we stopped to photograph a colony of seals on the gigantic rocks below. Our destination for the day was the largest city on the South Island, Christchurch--gateway to the island's natural wonders. We only stayed there overnight but will be returning to enjoy the city next week.

On Wednesday we boarded the TranzAlpine train which took us along gorges and river valleys into the Southern Alps.

Because of the mountainous terrain, our train had to go through long tunnels and pass over spectacular viaducts--the highest being 240 feet above the valley below.

After reboarding our coach at Arthur's Pass, we followed the narrow mountain roads where numerous one-lane bridges required drivers to be particularly alert. One of these bridges even had to be shared with a railroad track!


A stop in Hokitika provided an opportunity for us to see one of the area's major commercial enterprises. The art of carving and making jewelry from locally found jade, also known as greenstone, was evident throughout this town.

Continuing our day of diverse experiences, we found ourselves hiking off the road, up a lengthy path through the rain forest, to view the Franz Josef Glacier.

It is unique in that it is fed by frozen lakes at the top of the mountains and descends to the rainforest region close to the coast. What a fascinating two days this has been.

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 5

Waking up on Thursday to the sound of kea birds near our window, we were hoping to see these green New Zealand parrots, but we would have to wait for another day.

Soon after leaving the town of Fox Glacier, we were able to hike up the path to the Fox Glacier itself. We were amazed to learn that glaciers here move at the rate of about five feet a day!

Typical natural features of the South Island such as green pastures with mountains on both sides, winding roads through dense forests, the vast rugged Tasman Sea Coast, and towering waterfalls gave us photo opportunities today at every turn.

Nestled at the foot of some of these mountains is Arrowtown, a former gold-mining town, which we were able to visit. It was in 1862 that a gold rush began when 250 pounds of gold were recovered in a few weeks from the Fox River. At the height of the gold rush Arrowtown's population peaked at around 7000. Now it is one of the few gold-mining towns which did not become a ghost town or become developed as a modern city.

As we have been on our journey, we have had fun learning new words or expressions used here in New Zealand. Here are a few that we want to remember:

· bum bag--fanny pack

· carriage--train car
· coach--bus
· tramping--hiking

. motorway--expressway or freeway

· biscuit--cookie

· afghan--New Zealand chocolate biscuit

· motor camp--trailer par

· tick (verb)--to put a check mark on a form

· sachet--butter pat

· takeaway--carry out

· trim milk--skim milk

Road Signs

· Mind the way--Watch out

· Works end--End construction

· Give way--Yield

· Slippery when frosty

· Please stop on request

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES --PART 6

After our typical New Zealand buffet breakfast in our Queenstown hotel on Friday morning, we climbed aboard a local "Connectabus" to ride into the city. A quick gondola ride took us up to the top of a mountain to where we could enjoy a panoramic view of Queenstown, as well as of Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables Mountains. From the top there were opportunities for thrill-seekers to take part in typical New Zealand adventures such as bungy jumping, paragliding and luge. Our own adventure was climbing into the gondola and riding back down the mountain in the gondola!

Early that afternoon we joined our tour group for a scenic cruise on Lake Wakatipu. Our vessel was the vintage steamship, TSS Earnslaw, (launched in 1912), and known affectionately as "The Lady of the Lake."

On the far side of the lake we disembarked for a typical New Zealand buffet dinner and a sheep farm tour at the Walter Peak High Country Farm.

The grounds were nicely manicured, and the many beds of summer flowers showed the care that they constantly received.

On Saturday we prepared for a highlight of our journey, a boat trip into Fiordland National Park at Milford Sound. The scenery was different from anything we had ever seen. There were literally hundreds of spectacular waterfalls cascading down from the mountain tops into many of the glacier-carved fiords.

This excursion by itself was enough to make our whole trip worthwhile.

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 7
Sunday found us on the way to Dunedin, the furthest south we would stay. This university city of Scottish heritage is the oldest town in New Zealand. Dunedin is the old Gaelic name for Edinburgh, a city with which it has had close historical links. Many Victorian and Edwardian buildings, among the finest in the country, grace the streets of Dunedin.

One historic building is the railway station, which we had the opportunity to tour. The architect of this marvelous structure became known as "Gingerbread George." In addition to the intricate detailing on the outside, there are two imposing stained glass windows depicting approaching steam engines.

We had an option of remaining with the tour group at a hotel or electing to stay with a family who lives in Dunedin. We were most anxious to do the latter as meeting the locals has always brought pleasant surprises. This time was no exception. The couple who were our hosts, David and Trudi, live on a five acre lot that has been beautifully landscaped. It's hard to believe that they have done all of the work themselves. As you can imagine, they love to tell about what they have accomplished and enjoyed showing us all around their lovely home and gardens.

After touring the garden, we all sat in the living room having afternoon tea, which included a delicious homemade cheesecake. Actually, not just the two of us, but three others, including Yoko and Robert and Evelyn from the U.K., also stayed at their home for the night.

Soon after teatime, it was time for dinner at a huge wooden table in their dining roomHaving a home-cooked dinner after restaurant and hotel meals throughout the trip, was a welcome treat in itself. Our memorable meal consisted of a savory beef dish in gravy, creamed fish, new potatoes dug from Trudi's garden, a fresh carrot and green bean combination, tomato and avocado salad, and a beautiful Pavlova for dessert. This is a meringue dessert which is crispy on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. Pavlova is popular in both New Zealand and Australia especially on special occasions or at parties.

After reuniting with our tour group on Monday morning, we set out to see the only castle in New Zealand, a grand stone mansion, just outside the city of Dunedin. Larnach Castle was created and built by William Larnach for his wife, Eliza, in the late 1800's. Many English and Italian artisans were brought to Dunedin to work on the building.

While we were there, we were able to participate in an old Scottish Haggis ceremony. You will see from our photo that this was a comedic reenactment using three volunteers from our tour group.

Haggis is traditionally served with the Burns supper, when Scotland's national poet, Robert Burns, is commemorated. He wrote the poem "Ode Tae a Haggis," which starts "Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face, Great chieftain o' the puddin-race!" During Burns's lifetime haggis was a nourishing popular dish for the poor, as it was very cheap, being made from leftover, otherwise thrown away, parts of a sheep (the most common livestock in Scotland as well as in New Zealand).

Traveling north along the east coast, we made a stop to wander on the beach, pick up shells and photograph the 60 million-year-old Moeraki Boulders lying on the beach. These almost perfect spheres were formed on the sea bed as lime salts gradually accumulated around a hard core. Many are now eroded and cracks have been welded with calcite.

NEW ZEALAND ADVENTURES--PART 8

It is said, "All good things must come to an end." We knew we would soon bid farewell to our newfound friends, but not before hoping to get an unimpeded view of Mt. Cook, New Zealand's highest mountain at 12,349 feet. Our first attempts to see the peak from the base of the mountain were disappointing, and it seemed that the thick shroud was there to stay. We knew this would be our only chance to see and photograph this spectacular sight. Our bus driver, Wayne, said he knows of travelers who have come four times and still haven't seen Mt. Cook's summit. That wasn't what we hoped he would tell us.

Our allotted time at the base was running short, and all we had to show for our time there was what we could see on display in the Visitor Center, including an intricate 3D diorama.

As we set off toward our next destination, suddenly the clouds obscuring the mighty mountain seemed to just fade away. Wayne found a pull-off, and we all hurried off the bus, cameras in hand.

We were spellbound by the sight, in absolute awe at the grandeur and the majesty of such an unexpected surprise. Without a doubt it was the icing on the cake for our amazing two-week adventure.

From the sublime to the less so, we found ourselves at the site where the proximity of three large lakes combine to provide the largest storage capacity in the country for hydro-electric use . The electric power is so much in demand that even the North Island depends on the South Island's resources.

One of the three lakes is glacier-fed Lake Tekapo, which provides an idyllic setting for the tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, probably the most photographed church in New Zealand. As one enters the edifice and looks toward the altar, one looks through a clear window that perfectly frames the beauty of the lake.

Immediately adjacent to this quaint structure is a prominent bronze statue of a sheep dog. It was erected as a tribute to the valuable contribution made by these indispensable companions of the country's runholders (a ranch or station is also called a "run" by New Zealanders).

There was no better place to spend our last days in New Zealand than in the “Garden City” of Christchurch. It is said that Christchurch is the most English city outside England.

We could easily have spent all of our day at the Botanic Gardens. One website describes the Gardens as, " a grand old estate in the very heart of the city. When you visit you become its master and mistress, lording over acres and acres of trees, shrubs and flowers." It was a fantastic experience.

Other highlights included exploring Cathedral Square and its renowned Christ Church Cathedral, riding the Heritage Trams, and having lunch at a charming rustic eatery called “Annies,” where a good friend said we must have a meal.
We're sorry that Yoko's husband wasn't able to join us on our adventure. We give her a lot of credit for being willing to participate as the only Japanese person on a tour that was all in English. Many in our group went out of their way to make her feel at ease, and our tour director, Darlene, was often there for Yoko at just the right time. Yoko made many new friends and seemed to have an exceptionally enjoyable time. Can it really be the end?

So much has happened in so few days. Now what was once a country we mostly read about or heard about has become so much more, thanks in large part to our knowledgeable tour director, Darlene, and our exceptional guide/bus driver, Wayne. They made an outstanding leadership team.

The sights, the sounds, the smells, and mostly the people have come alive and our preconceived notions have faded away just like the clouds around Mt. Cook on that magic day. It's time to say “E noho ra” or goodbye in the Maori language.

We unequivocally say to all of our family and friends, put New Zealand at or near the top of your "places to see" list. You won't be disappointed.

Judy and Dick

March, 2008