#12--From San Francisco to Salt Lake City, Utah

From San Francisco to Salt Lake City, UtahSeptember 19-20, 2008
Our 9:00 a.m. departure from San Francisco on a connector bus to where the Amtrak station is located in Emeryville, barely gave us time to carry out some complimentary breakfast rolls from the Oxford Hotel to eat on the way. Now we began the return leg of our grand journey by rail on the California Zephyr, which runs daily from San Francisco to Chicago. Before we reach Chicago, though, we’ll spend time in both Salt Lake City, Utah, and Denver, Colorado.




The Zephyr route also passes through Sacramento, California; Reno, Nevada; and Omaha, Nebraska; before terminating in Chicago. Going East. the route traverses both the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range and later the Rocky Mountains. The tracks twist past narrow canyons and towering peaks. They also climb through the mile-high Donner Pass and later follow the Colorado River through a breathtakingly beautiful mountain wilderness. Many travelers say this is the most beautiful train trip in all of North America.



Construction for the California route through the mountains began in 1863, requiring the hiring of great numbers of immigrant laborers. As many as 10,000 Chinese workers were involved at the height of this massive project. Within six years the route was completed. A major factor in creating ethnic diversity in this country was the building of the railroads in the late 19th century.

If we had had a choice, we surely wouldn’t have chosen to arrive in Salt Lake City at 4:00 in the morning—or at 3:00 a.m. Pacific time, which we just left behind in California; but we had no choice as we disembarked at the Salt Lake City train depot.


We had been told that our hotel was within walking distance, but instead it was 10 minutes away by taxi. We were glad we were able to take a taxi at this very early hour. We found the Courtyard Marriott to be our best accommodation thus far. We really appreciate being able to have a room at 4:30 in the morning instead of having to wait until afternoon. We slept for three hours before heading out to see the city.


As we walked and walked to find Temple Square, the hub of activities for the Mormon Church, we found that the city blocks are much larger than the ones in most cities.

To our surprise, we were able to enjoy an organ recital in the Mormon Tabernacle at noon! The marvelous organ there is recognized as a quintessential example of the American Classic style of organ building. This organ's 206 ranks, totaling 11,623 pipes, are organized into eight divisions and are played from a five-manual console. What a marvelous recital it was!











After taking a walking tour of the area, given by two young women, one from Guatemala and one from Latvia, we had lunch on the top floor of the Joseph Smith Building where sunlight streamed in through the skylights.

































Young people dressed for a wedding look
down upon a model of Jerusalem AD 33 in the Visitors' Center.








As we looked down from the tenth floor to view the temple, which is open only to members of the church, we saw many wedding parties being photographed in the courtyard. We were told that there could be as many as ten weddings taking place in different rooms at the same time on any given Saturday.






















View of the setting of Salt Lake City surrounded by mountains
Adjacent to the Joseph Smith Building are beautiful gardens to wander through, making one
realize the splendor of nature. Creative use of water, both in fountains and pools, as well as a waterfall off the top of a building, enhance the overall dynamic of the surroundings.


















Thanks to Judy’s eagle eye, we discovered that there was to be a concert, “An American Songbook,” that we were extremely anxious to attend on our only night in Salt Lake City. Not only was the 360 member Mormon Tabernacle Choir performing, but also the Utah Symphony and two outstanding soloists, Denyce Graves and Brian Stokes Mitchell. We could hardly believe that the guest conductor that evening was to be Cincinnati’s very own Erich Kunzel in an auditorium that seats 21,000 concert goers.


What a fantastic concert it was! There were more standing ovations than we have ever witnessed with a rousing rendition of the Battle Hymn of the Republic as a stirring encore. It was an evening to be remembered for years to come, a serendipity that could happen only once in a lifetime.


Dick had suggested before our journey that we skip Salt Lake City all together and add an extra day in the Colorado Rockies. Judy had to convince Dick that we should see Salt Lake City and possibly hear a concert there since we would pass right through on the train. Dick is very glad that Judy persisted despite the 4 a.m. arrival and 4 a.m. departure the next day. This time there would be no overnight on the train, simply one long and scenic day of travel through more than two thirds of Utah and more than half of Colorado, ending the day in Denver.